A spinning rod is ringed to be used with a fixed spool reel. Fixed spool reels are very versatile, easy to use, and allow control of a running and plunging fish with a slipping clutch mechanism. They are particularly good when long casting is called for.
A bait-casting rod is ringed to be used with bait casting, closed face or multiplying reel, which sits on top of the rod. Rods with a trigger grip can only be used with one of these types of reel, which allows a fighting fish to take line with an adjustable drag mechanism. Often the choice of boat anglers, some people feel a bait-casting set-up gives more direct contact with the fish.
Which kind of rod and reel you choose is up to you, but beginners may be inclined to go for a spinning set-up, which is easier to master. For ultra light fishing, a spinning set-up is usually preferred, as very light lures are much easier to cast on a fixed spool reel.
There is one exception in the area of choice; for the jerk fishing there is no real alternative to a bait-casting set-up, because of the jerking retrieve used to give the lures their distinctive actions.
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Spoons
Spoons are the most basic and probably the oldest form of lure, and everyone should have a good selection in their kit. They imitate the flickering movement of a baitfish, and come in a wide range of sizes and colours to tempt all predators.
Their main virtues are that they are easy to use, effective and relatively inexpensive. In particular they are the basic winter workhorse for pike, when they can be fished low and slow over the bottom where the pike will be laying, and of course they are first choice for saltwater where a fast retrieve is the order of the day.
You can either match the food fish (silver for roach, gold for rudd, blue for mackerel and so on) or go for guddy colours, which fish will attack as an intruder.
Cast out and count down until you feel the spoon hit the bottom; that gives your depth and a good idea of sinking speed. If you want to fish just above the bottom, and you counted to ten before your spoon came to rest, the cast out and start your retrieve on the count of nine.
It’s usual to fish spoons with a steady retrieve, though the occasional twitch can prove productive. It’s a good idea to have a wide variety of shapes, sizes and colours in order to present different temptations in varying conditions.
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Suspending Lures
Suspending lures, sometimes called neutral buoyancy lures, are designed to have the same specific gravity as water. That means they will just hang in the water alongside a likely target spot once you have cranked the lure down to the desired depth.
Suspending lures are very popular, and in particular they are useful for fishing alongside weed beds.
Allow them to hang in the water, giving them just the occasional twist to entice your prey out of its cover. Pike are real suckers for this method!
One important thing to remember is that most suspending lures are designed for US bass fishing, that is, to be used without a trace.
A trace that is too heavy will turn a suspending lure into a slow sinker. Playing around with hook gauge might help lighten the lure and make it a true suspender.
Minimise the weight of your swivel and snap and reduce trace length to around 200cm, this will help lighten the drag on a suspending lure and help it maintain neutral buoyancy.
You can also turn a floating diver into a suspender by carefully adding extra weight, for example, by twisting wire around the shanks of all the trebles, or simply changing to heavy duty hooks.
The type of water you are fishing in will also have an effect; a suspender designed principally for salt water would sink slightly in fresh water.
It’s always worth checking any lure to make sure that it is actually doing what you think it is, and this particularly applies to suspenders.
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Floating divers come in all shapes and sizes, from the fat bodied alphabet lures, like the Mean Sub, through to the fish shaped minnow lures like the Mean Conqueror.
They are the most useful family of lures, enabling you to fish at just about every depth of water from just under the surface to 20ft or more.
Floating divers are cast out on to the water, where they float until you start to retrieve them, at which point their diving vane makes them dive to a certain depth.
The angle of the vane to the body largely determines the diving depth-the shallower the angle to the body, the deeper the lure will dive.
The diving depth of a lure is the maximum to which it will dive with a normal retrieve. You can make it dive a bit shallower by retrieving slowly, pausing in your retrieve and keeping the rod tip up.
Floating divers will usually dive deeper if they are trolled.
The diameter (not the breaking strain) of your line will also affect the diving depth. The size and shape of the lip plays a great part in how the lure will move through the water, as of course does the shape of the body.
Sometimes fish want lures with a very subtle action, and sometimes they are looking for something really wild.
It is not easy to predict what will work on a particular day, especially for pike, so a choice of floating divers is an essential part of the lure angler’s armoury.
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Rainbow & Brown Trout
both rainbow and brown trout are present in many North American, British and European waters and rivers.
The most popular lures for both species are small spinners. Upstream fishing is the best method to choose, as the fish has the chance to see the “food” coming towards it, but in a brisk flow it can be difficult to keep a spinner working well.
In these circumstances a small sinking minnow may work better. A floating lure can be “trotted down” and the retrieve started just before the place where you believe the trout are lying.
Brown trout are rather nervy, so fish nice and discretely. They will if in the right mood take fairly large lures, whereas rainbows prefer small baits. Rainbows love bright colours- Reds-Oranges and Fluorescents, whereas browns seem to go for silvers-yellows and naturals best.
Salmon
The first thing you think about salmon is that a lot of people fish for the mighty salmon and only a few catch any.
They are not that common anywhere, a good salmon angler thinks he’s had a good season if he catches four or five.
You can get the impression sometimes of salmon jumping all over the place, but it is usually one lone salmon chasing up and down a few hundred yards of river.
Catching salmon is a tough game, but you can find salmon-holding spots in all sorts of places, some not necessarily very obvious; all you can do is keep trying, watch where other salmon anglers are fishing, and ask as many questions as possible.
Other anglers don’t always tell you much, but sometimes a tight lip reveals a lot more than words.
Rapala Original and jointed floating in sizes 5,7 and 9 are good for summer fishing, maybe a size or two larger for the spring. In a deep river a “paternostered” bomb on a weak link about a mitre + up from the lure is a good tip.
Some rivers have a traditional colour of salmon lure, Orange/Yellow and Blue/Silver. Stick to bright colours, you can see the lure more easily which means more effective fishing.
With salmon more skill is required to fish with spoons than plugs. Retrieves can be a lot faster than with other freshwater fish. Casts can be made upstream as well as down stream; a cast upstream in a strong flow will require a fast retrieve to keep in touch with the lure, but it won’t be too fast for the salmon.
On shallower rivers the same techniques will do, but you may need less weight, or no weight at all in the shallower runs.
For bank fishing a rod of 8-9 or 10 foot (2.5-3 mitres) is a good choice for salmon, it makes casting the weight and lure easier.
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Fishing & Hunting Tips
If you find a good spot don’t be afraid to put two or even three rods on it to maximise your chances
Alan Enright Southampton UK.
Garadice is a massive Irish Lough, and is absolutely crammed with Bream, Roach, Hybrids, Big Pike, Perch and Tench, one of the best starting waters in the country.
J O`Quigley Kansas